Why spend up to $50 on a ball gag when you can make one (or twelve) yourself for about four bucks?
http://www.amazon.com/Intech-Practice-Balls-holes-White/dp/B001TD92QU/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4
Simply take a small piece of rope and lock one of these practice golf balls in the mid point with some simple square knots. They're designed to take a beating and make a great gift with the extra supply. Besides being a good fit for just about every adult, they're perfect for self bondage because they don't restrict breathing.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Monday, September 28, 2009
Release Method #72: Baking your keys in the oven...
This one is a little on the risky side, but then so is self bondage. Set your keys on a baking sheet and turn the oven on to around 450. Once the oven reaches the right temperature turn it off and finish your bondage setup. Now you'll have to wait until the oven temperature reaches a touchable temperature before you can pull the key out and release yourself.
Of course opening the door will speed up the cooling process, but it would still take a while to cool. Using oven mitts would be fairly difficult with hand cuffs on. And you'll probably want to put all of the tongs in your house out of reach.
There are of course many variants to this idea. Most oven models have timers on them to turn off the oven after a certain period so you could extend the duration. You could also use the "self-cleaning" mode of modern ovens which physically lock the oven shut and heat up to about 600F. This process usually lasts about 3 hours. You'll want to test this with your keys first, but you should be fine as even aluminum melts at well over 1000F.
I've even used a big pot of boiling water to trap a key. With the pot moved to the middle of the living room and only one free hand available, I couldn't move the pot or empty it without spilling a massive amount of water, and I couldn't reach the key until the temperature fell to the low 100's. It's a little more involved of a setup, but the idea is still the same.
Of course opening the door will speed up the cooling process, but it would still take a while to cool. Using oven mitts would be fairly difficult with hand cuffs on. And you'll probably want to put all of the tongs in your house out of reach.
There are of course many variants to this idea. Most oven models have timers on them to turn off the oven after a certain period so you could extend the duration. You could also use the "self-cleaning" mode of modern ovens which physically lock the oven shut and heat up to about 600F. This process usually lasts about 3 hours. You'll want to test this with your keys first, but you should be fine as even aluminum melts at well over 1000F.
I've even used a big pot of boiling water to trap a key. With the pot moved to the middle of the living room and only one free hand available, I couldn't move the pot or empty it without spilling a massive amount of water, and I couldn't reach the key until the temperature fell to the low 100's. It's a little more involved of a setup, but the idea is still the same.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
A Timed-Release Closet Door
There's a huge demand for timed-release products in the selfbondage world. Handcuffs, safes, locks are some of the pricier items. Yesterday I devised a simple means of locking my closet door for a specified period. There are magnetic door locks that are expensive and difficult to install inconspicuously. There's even a security code lock sold by Schlage that you can open with a pin number on the pad or via your cell-phone... how's that for telecommuting Masterdom.
My solution is cheap, easily hidden and effective. My approach involves a DIY Winch, your typical ice release device, rope (clothes line,) an eye hook, and an over-the-door hanger hook. And of couse the closet, but this will work for any door that is opposite a wall.
Let's start with a few assumptions. First, you'll need to drill holes into your walls, they're easy to fill if you rent, but you may not be okay with it. Second, I'm assuming your closet door opens outward and is a normal door, not a pocket or accordion door, because those won't work.
Secure the eye hook at the base of the wall opposite the door so that it's 4 inches from the opening side of the door. You'll want a decent guage of metal, it's the anchor that will prevent you from opening your door. It would be best if you could predrill the hole as this will prevent you from splitting the baseboard.
1. Attach the ice release mechanism to the eye hook.
2. Attach the anchor of the DIY Winch to the ice release mechanism.
3. Tie a slipknot around the hook of the over-the-door hanger and feed the tails through the DIY Winch.
4. Mount the door hook on the bottom of the door with the hook inside the closet.
5. Shut the closet door, with the tails of the "pull cord" pulled under the door so you can access them with the closet door shut.
6. Pull the "pull cord" until the slack is removed.
Your closet door should now be locked shut until the ice release mechanism passes through the eye hook. Until then, the hook on the door will taughtly keep the door shut.
Now let your imagination run wild. You can put the keys to your cuffs and locks inside the closet, you could add another over the door anchor point to the top of the closet door and wait to be released.
You could even lock yourself in the closet if you move the winch and ice release to the opposite wall in the bedroom, run the rope from the bottom door hook, through the eye hook in the back of the closet, back out to the otherside of the room. You'd need much more rope but it would work.
Some closet doors are fairly cheap and can bend enough at the top that an anchor would pop out, but you can still place items in the back of the closet on a hook well out of reach.
The nice part is the eye hook is the only permanent piece. You could remove it if you needed to, but I recommend keeping it in place because it's sturdiest on the first mount. Just put a shoe or box in front of it and no one should ever notice.
To repair the hole, just ask someone at a home improvement shop and they'll be able tell you what you need to patch a small hole in a wall.
My solution is cheap, easily hidden and effective. My approach involves a DIY Winch, your typical ice release device, rope (clothes line,) an eye hook, and an over-the-door hanger hook. And of couse the closet, but this will work for any door that is opposite a wall.
Let's start with a few assumptions. First, you'll need to drill holes into your walls, they're easy to fill if you rent, but you may not be okay with it. Second, I'm assuming your closet door opens outward and is a normal door, not a pocket or accordion door, because those won't work.
Secure the eye hook at the base of the wall opposite the door so that it's 4 inches from the opening side of the door. You'll want a decent guage of metal, it's the anchor that will prevent you from opening your door. It would be best if you could predrill the hole as this will prevent you from splitting the baseboard.
1. Attach the ice release mechanism to the eye hook.
2. Attach the anchor of the DIY Winch to the ice release mechanism.
3. Tie a slipknot around the hook of the over-the-door hanger and feed the tails through the DIY Winch.
4. Mount the door hook on the bottom of the door with the hook inside the closet.
5. Shut the closet door, with the tails of the "pull cord" pulled under the door so you can access them with the closet door shut.
6. Pull the "pull cord" until the slack is removed.
Your closet door should now be locked shut until the ice release mechanism passes through the eye hook. Until then, the hook on the door will taughtly keep the door shut.
Now let your imagination run wild. You can put the keys to your cuffs and locks inside the closet, you could add another over the door anchor point to the top of the closet door and wait to be released.
You could even lock yourself in the closet if you move the winch and ice release to the opposite wall in the bedroom, run the rope from the bottom door hook, through the eye hook in the back of the closet, back out to the otherside of the room. You'd need much more rope but it would work.
Some closet doors are fairly cheap and can bend enough at the top that an anchor would pop out, but you can still place items in the back of the closet on a hook well out of reach.
The nice part is the eye hook is the only permanent piece. You could remove it if you needed to, but I recommend keeping it in place because it's sturdiest on the first mount. Just put a shoe or box in front of it and no one should ever notice.
To repair the hole, just ask someone at a home improvement shop and they'll be able tell you what you need to patch a small hole in a wall.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Release Method #137: The AC Air Return...
I used to use this method a few years ago and had actually forgotten about it since. The concept is simple, attach your key to a piece of printer paper with some tape. Turn on your AC or Heater by adjusting the temperature a few degrees. Let the paper get sucked up against the air intake grate while the unit is running. Once the air turns off the paper will fall from the ceiling.
There are a few necessary conditions of course. First, the air intake must be in the ceiling or at least high up on a wall. Some are actually built into or near the floor, but they're more rare because they pull in extra dust into the filter. A window unit would work as long as you are tied close to the ground out of reach.
Second, you'll want to test the duration of the temperature change outside of any bondage so you can get an idea of how long you'll be trapped. Some older units may take a while so adjusting by a degree or two would be necessary. You'll also want to ensure that you don't set the temperature to a level that your unit cannot reach. If your AC can only cool your house to 76 degrees, a setting of 74 would leave you stuck until the safety shutoff kicks in which can be hours.
Finally make sure whatever you bind yourself in allows you to roam the floor around the air return. When the paper falls from the ceiling it can travel quite a distance under the right conditions.
The best part about this method is if the power fails, your key will still fall.
There are a few necessary conditions of course. First, the air intake must be in the ceiling or at least high up on a wall. Some are actually built into or near the floor, but they're more rare because they pull in extra dust into the filter. A window unit would work as long as you are tied close to the ground out of reach.
Second, you'll want to test the duration of the temperature change outside of any bondage so you can get an idea of how long you'll be trapped. Some older units may take a while so adjusting by a degree or two would be necessary. You'll also want to ensure that you don't set the temperature to a level that your unit cannot reach. If your AC can only cool your house to 76 degrees, a setting of 74 would leave you stuck until the safety shutoff kicks in which can be hours.
Finally make sure whatever you bind yourself in allows you to roam the floor around the air return. When the paper falls from the ceiling it can travel quite a distance under the right conditions.
The best part about this method is if the power fails, your key will still fall.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Bound By Your Own Erection (Guys Only)
Even using an ice release mechanism can be dangerous, 30 minutes to 4 hours is plenty of time for things to go wrong. There are times when I'm only wanting a short session yet I've underestimated the time to melt. Other times I want a longer session while setting up, but then wished I hadn't used so many cubes while bound.
These problems are easily solved by using your erect penis as a mechanism to trap you in your bindings. I have a couple designs that I use and one more that I'm working on, but for now I'll start with the simplest type.
You'll need some packing tape, a piece of printer paper, some scissors and some string. Cut a piece of paper two inches wide and eight inches long (the width of the printer paper.) Now apply strips of clear packing tape to the paper covering every square inch on both sides. Offset each piece so that you can fold the tape over the edges of the paper which will get rid of any sharp edges.
Now roll the paper into a tube that has a diameter just shy of your fully erect penis. Sizing is important so you may need to try a few times to get it right. I wrap it around my erect penis and then mark where the edge lines up. Then I reduce the diameter by a quarter inch and tape it off. You don't want it to be very tight, the plastic tape will act like bondage tape sticking to your penis when erect but painlessly peeling off when you become flacid. Be sure to tape over the seam on the inside of the tube so that you don't accidentally pinch your penis (unless you'd prefer having the pain.)
Finally take a foot long piece of string, fold it in half, and spiral the ends of the string into a small "disc" of string like so:
You can do this by pinching the ends between your thumb and forefinger and winding the string around itself until you get a flat coil. This can be adhered to the inside of the tube with another piece of tape. Which once your erect penis is filling the inside of the tube, you won't be able to tamper with it.
Because the string is in a hoop, you can add a small key ring with a larks head knot. If your handcuff keys are attached to the tube around your penis, and your hands are tied above your head, the only way to get out would be to wait until your penis is flacid and the tube can be pulled off (using a string that is tied between your cuffs and the tube.)
Or you could anchor your penis to an object that is far away from the keys so you won't be able to go get the keys until you're done with the bondage scene. The best part is that you can get out when you're mentally done with the bondage, so if you're really into the session, it will last a long time. If you're in trouble either serious or you're about to be caught unintentionally, your penis will naturally deflate when your adrenaline starts pumping. I've gone from fully erect to soft in about 20 seconds.
If just knowing you can't get out until you go soft isn't enough to keep you hard, queue up some porn on your TV or computer and either set the sleep timer, or chose a video that's as long as you want. The tube is strong enough to not tear thanks to the tape, and removing the tube in any way without scissors or going flacid will prove to be difficult if not impossible.
Test the tube outside of bondage first. You may find it's too tight and may need to very carefully cut the tube off. Obviously you don't want to put too much tension on your penis or you risk damaging your organ. Check back later for the other alternate designs.
These problems are easily solved by using your erect penis as a mechanism to trap you in your bindings. I have a couple designs that I use and one more that I'm working on, but for now I'll start with the simplest type.
You'll need some packing tape, a piece of printer paper, some scissors and some string. Cut a piece of paper two inches wide and eight inches long (the width of the printer paper.) Now apply strips of clear packing tape to the paper covering every square inch on both sides. Offset each piece so that you can fold the tape over the edges of the paper which will get rid of any sharp edges.
Now roll the paper into a tube that has a diameter just shy of your fully erect penis. Sizing is important so you may need to try a few times to get it right. I wrap it around my erect penis and then mark where the edge lines up. Then I reduce the diameter by a quarter inch and tape it off. You don't want it to be very tight, the plastic tape will act like bondage tape sticking to your penis when erect but painlessly peeling off when you become flacid. Be sure to tape over the seam on the inside of the tube so that you don't accidentally pinch your penis (unless you'd prefer having the pain.)
Finally take a foot long piece of string, fold it in half, and spiral the ends of the string into a small "disc" of string like so:
You can do this by pinching the ends between your thumb and forefinger and winding the string around itself until you get a flat coil. This can be adhered to the inside of the tube with another piece of tape. Which once your erect penis is filling the inside of the tube, you won't be able to tamper with it.
Because the string is in a hoop, you can add a small key ring with a larks head knot. If your handcuff keys are attached to the tube around your penis, and your hands are tied above your head, the only way to get out would be to wait until your penis is flacid and the tube can be pulled off (using a string that is tied between your cuffs and the tube.)
Or you could anchor your penis to an object that is far away from the keys so you won't be able to go get the keys until you're done with the bondage scene. The best part is that you can get out when you're mentally done with the bondage, so if you're really into the session, it will last a long time. If you're in trouble either serious or you're about to be caught unintentionally, your penis will naturally deflate when your adrenaline starts pumping. I've gone from fully erect to soft in about 20 seconds.
If just knowing you can't get out until you go soft isn't enough to keep you hard, queue up some porn on your TV or computer and either set the sleep timer, or chose a video that's as long as you want. The tube is strong enough to not tear thanks to the tape, and removing the tube in any way without scissors or going flacid will prove to be difficult if not impossible.
Test the tube outside of bondage first. You may find it's too tight and may need to very carefully cut the tube off. Obviously you don't want to put too much tension on your penis or you risk damaging your organ. Check back later for the other alternate designs.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
A DIY Winch
The DIY Winch is a simple one way tightening device that works with rope. I have dozens of these at hand because they work so well. You basically need two solid metal rings, the guage depends on the application, two pieces of rope (no thicker than the diameter of the metal used to make the ring) an anchoring object and a couple weaves of the rope.
Create a simple larks head knot over both rings using the lark's head of one piece of rope. This rope should be about two feet long which after folded in half and knotted will provide several inches of rope to tie to your anchor point.
Your other rope needs to be woven into the two rings in a very specific manner. Instead of even trying to describe it, here's a picture to look at:
The image shows a tied knot at the two rings, I prefer always to use a larks head knot since you cannot untie it under tension. The "draw cord" is also a single line, and I typically use another larks head and have the two ends result in the "pull cord."
Using this method allows you to pull the rope through only one direction. It's my most valuable tool for self-bondage because it's so cheap and offers a very effective method for inescapable scenes.
The example is inteded for suspension, hence the durable 3/4 inch metal rings. I use a variety of different sizes from 1 inch, to tiny curtain rod rings. I use rope, fishing line, and even simple string to tie off a variety of things.
The device is safe, even for suspension, and has little give. You can tighten your own wrists simply by pulling on the coord your wrist is tied to. And you can anchor them across a room if you need because the rope is reusable in the device.
When used for suspension, you'll need to find someway to remove any tension on the line to lower the person back down. You'll want to look out for rings that are not well made, they can be a weak link and are not recommended for suspension bondage. Even decent ones from Hardware stores are only rated up to 200lbs. If you want to use this for suspension check out a marine shop or search online.
Also watch out for rough edges where the rings join themselves. This can tear into your rope, ruining it for any form of suspension.
Create a simple larks head knot over both rings using the lark's head of one piece of rope. This rope should be about two feet long which after folded in half and knotted will provide several inches of rope to tie to your anchor point.
Your other rope needs to be woven into the two rings in a very specific manner. Instead of even trying to describe it, here's a picture to look at:
The image shows a tied knot at the two rings, I prefer always to use a larks head knot since you cannot untie it under tension. The "draw cord" is also a single line, and I typically use another larks head and have the two ends result in the "pull cord."
Using this method allows you to pull the rope through only one direction. It's my most valuable tool for self-bondage because it's so cheap and offers a very effective method for inescapable scenes.
The example is inteded for suspension, hence the durable 3/4 inch metal rings. I use a variety of different sizes from 1 inch, to tiny curtain rod rings. I use rope, fishing line, and even simple string to tie off a variety of things.
The device is safe, even for suspension, and has little give. You can tighten your own wrists simply by pulling on the coord your wrist is tied to. And you can anchor them across a room if you need because the rope is reusable in the device.
When used for suspension, you'll need to find someway to remove any tension on the line to lower the person back down. You'll want to look out for rings that are not well made, they can be a weak link and are not recommended for suspension bondage. Even decent ones from Hardware stores are only rated up to 200lbs. If you want to use this for suspension check out a marine shop or search online.
Also watch out for rough edges where the rings join themselves. This can tear into your rope, ruining it for any form of suspension.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Bondage with Water Ski Apparel
So last night I tried a brand new setup. I haven't had much time lately with my job getting in the way, but this weekend I have the house to myself and nothing to do but experiment.
I setup a rig in my back yard. It's a small yard there are apartments behind us so people can easily see into it during the day. At night it seems a little more private, but who knows.
I draped a rope from our second story bedroom window down to the back patio. I inverted a life jacket for water skiing and wore it like shorts. I do this a lot when I'm on the lake and just anchored, wading in the water and drinking a few beers with friends. You can basically sit up while being mostly submerged.
Only up until recently had I realized I could use that setup for a very comfortable suspension rig. The padded shoulders fit well in the groin area, and the straps snap snuggly up the ribcage distributing pressure evenly and away from pressure points on the legs.
I attached a line to the nylon webbing on each side of the life vest. Then I fed the ends up through my ratcheting ring device that I attached to the rope dangling from the 2nd story window.
I then attached a rope to a tree across the back yard and tied a rope cleat to the free end. I put on a penis mounted vibrator that when I'm erect is very snug and difficult to remove with both hands. Tied to the vibrator was the key to my handcuffs which was also tied to a string that attached to my wrist.
After getting into the life vest rig, I stood on a stool and hoisted myself up through the ratcheting ring device until the slack was removed and I was about 2 feet off the ground.
Then I fed the rope cleat through a hoop in the front of the life vest and pulled it through. This pulled me away from the stool out into the middle of the backyard, and due to the place I tied the rope in the tree it pulled me even higher off the ground. I secured the rope cleat to itself and it locked in place.
I was now about 3 feet into the back yard, 3 feet off the ground, and suspended in a very sensual and secure manner. Next I pulled a blindfold over my eyes, and locked a pair of handcuffs behind me.
I did this around 1am and my neighborhood is pretty quiet even around 8pm, but I couldn't help but think someone was watching me from across the alleyway or from either of the houses next to me.
I couldn't undo the rope cleat because it was in front of me. The straps to my life jacket were in front as well, but unlocking those would probably lead to disaster. The vibrator on my penis was stuck there until I went soft which meant the key to my handcuffs wouldn't be available until then either. I keep the key on a string tied to my wrist just in case the vibrator fell off my penis onto the ground.
Well, the first orgams took a mere minute to hit. The open neck of the life jacket served perfectly to let my cum hit the ground. But I didn't go soft I had been planing this all day, and at this point I just stayed hard through two more. After the third I was exhausted, sweating, and having second thoughts about being so exposed. All of that combined was enough to make me soft, whic allowed me to pull the key towards the cuffs and escape.
When I undid the rope cleat, I swung back and landed directly on top of the stool. I was weakly able to stand up and undo the ring device. Then it was a quick shower and finally sleep becuase it was almost 2 in the morning.
I'm about to go do it again, because it was just perfect. This time I'm doing an indoor adventure since it's the middle of the day right now, but I'll report on the variations I use for in the house.
Expect a few more stories based on this setup, because it's my new favorite right now.
I setup a rig in my back yard. It's a small yard there are apartments behind us so people can easily see into it during the day. At night it seems a little more private, but who knows.
I draped a rope from our second story bedroom window down to the back patio. I inverted a life jacket for water skiing and wore it like shorts. I do this a lot when I'm on the lake and just anchored, wading in the water and drinking a few beers with friends. You can basically sit up while being mostly submerged.
Only up until recently had I realized I could use that setup for a very comfortable suspension rig. The padded shoulders fit well in the groin area, and the straps snap snuggly up the ribcage distributing pressure evenly and away from pressure points on the legs.
I attached a line to the nylon webbing on each side of the life vest. Then I fed the ends up through my ratcheting ring device that I attached to the rope dangling from the 2nd story window.
I then attached a rope to a tree across the back yard and tied a rope cleat to the free end. I put on a penis mounted vibrator that when I'm erect is very snug and difficult to remove with both hands. Tied to the vibrator was the key to my handcuffs which was also tied to a string that attached to my wrist.
After getting into the life vest rig, I stood on a stool and hoisted myself up through the ratcheting ring device until the slack was removed and I was about 2 feet off the ground.
Then I fed the rope cleat through a hoop in the front of the life vest and pulled it through. This pulled me away from the stool out into the middle of the backyard, and due to the place I tied the rope in the tree it pulled me even higher off the ground. I secured the rope cleat to itself and it locked in place.
I was now about 3 feet into the back yard, 3 feet off the ground, and suspended in a very sensual and secure manner. Next I pulled a blindfold over my eyes, and locked a pair of handcuffs behind me.
I did this around 1am and my neighborhood is pretty quiet even around 8pm, but I couldn't help but think someone was watching me from across the alleyway or from either of the houses next to me.
I couldn't undo the rope cleat because it was in front of me. The straps to my life jacket were in front as well, but unlocking those would probably lead to disaster. The vibrator on my penis was stuck there until I went soft which meant the key to my handcuffs wouldn't be available until then either. I keep the key on a string tied to my wrist just in case the vibrator fell off my penis onto the ground.
Well, the first orgams took a mere minute to hit. The open neck of the life jacket served perfectly to let my cum hit the ground. But I didn't go soft I had been planing this all day, and at this point I just stayed hard through two more. After the third I was exhausted, sweating, and having second thoughts about being so exposed. All of that combined was enough to make me soft, whic allowed me to pull the key towards the cuffs and escape.
When I undid the rope cleat, I swung back and landed directly on top of the stool. I was weakly able to stand up and undo the ring device. Then it was a quick shower and finally sleep becuase it was almost 2 in the morning.
I'm about to go do it again, because it was just perfect. This time I'm doing an indoor adventure since it's the middle of the day right now, but I'll report on the variations I use for in the house.
Expect a few more stories based on this setup, because it's my new favorite right now.
How To Engage in Self Suspension Bondage
I was recently asked how to do self suspension release mechanisms by another fetlife member and here is my reply so that you all don't have to wait much longer for my thoughts to collect. Mind you it's just a start and I'll be expanding upon each of these methods in more detail as time goes on.
These days I rely on two methods... I usually have a platform (stool/chair/ladder) that I stand on while I tie the rig, then push the stand away from reach. I have an ottoman that has rolling wheels that makes it easy to kick away. To get it back I rig a rope to the stand and have that attached to a hook above my head but out of reach. When my timer releases (usually ice) the rope falls near my reach and I can pull the ottoman back under my feet.
My second trust worthy approach is a door hook. I have specially made nylon webbing straps that have a D-hook on one end and a rubber bar on the other. The rubber bar goes on the top of the door outside my bedroom and the D-hook hangs on the inside. When the door is shut the strap is stable and I can rig myself up. When I open the door it's only a drop of about a foot, so I can just catch myself. I don't use any leg bonds when using this method.
I use those the most because they are easy to work with and I have consistently set them up so I know they work. Other options I've used in the past, but have less trust in are as follows...
When using large braided rope as a main line I would often make what's called a slipped figure eight or slipped half hitch. A basic knot, but not pulled all the way through. So you'd have a loop of rope called the drawloop sticking out one end. The tension of the rope would prevent any slippage and when I wanted out I simply pulled the knot lose by jerking the drawloop back out. In the same way most Chinese food restaurants tie the plastic bags on to-go orders. Again, a small suspension height was required.
Another method I'm trying to perfect is having a rope tied to a dinner napkin sized piece of nylon cloth. I pass the nylon cloth through a small metal ring that is attached at the top of my suspension mount. Then I add a golf ball shaped ice cube to the inside of the cloth and pull the slack back through the metal ring until the ice wedges against the ring. This will create a secure line until the ice melts enough that it either slips through or cracks. Either way your main rope and nylon sack will fall through and you're released.
I've also used a pit in the ground as my suspension point and the edge nearby as my release point, getting in was as easy as jumping in and getting out required me to swing back to the edge.
I have used a zipline approach where you have a cable attached between two trees and your main suspension line is on a pulley that can move across the top wire. This requires a lot of tension though otherwise the top wire will just dip so much that you can't get back to the edge of the line where your stand is.
You could also use a ratcheting rope device, either hand made - Special Ring Device or purchased RopeRatchet from a place like home depot. The trick with these is to use a high strength nylon string, with several wraps around your mount point and the ratchet device. When you want to get down you simply cut through the nylon string (only one wrap needs to be cut) with a pair of safety shears and you'll fall from the rig.
And the last one I can think of off the top of my head is to tie your self with no slack in a standing position, then use a locking mechanism to tie your feet up to your thighs or waist. To release yourself you simply unlock the bind between your ankles and waist and you'll be able to stand right up and remove the main suspension line. Something like a keyed lock to hold an ankle bind to a belt around your waist would work.
Again, these are all very dangerous methods regardless of how comfortable I've become with them. Always test your rigs from inches off the ground, never bind your hands until you're fully confident in your work. And I really suggest you don't do inverted suspension unsupervised. And always try to keep your sessions as short as you can. The ice method is still a work in progress for me because it's so hard to time the release, not because I can't get it to work. If you pass out while in a suspended state you can easily cut off circulation to any limb including your brain without any way of recovering.
Enjoy!
These days I rely on two methods... I usually have a platform (stool/chair/ladder) that I stand on while I tie the rig, then push the stand away from reach. I have an ottoman that has rolling wheels that makes it easy to kick away. To get it back I rig a rope to the stand and have that attached to a hook above my head but out of reach. When my timer releases (usually ice) the rope falls near my reach and I can pull the ottoman back under my feet.
My second trust worthy approach is a door hook. I have specially made nylon webbing straps that have a D-hook on one end and a rubber bar on the other. The rubber bar goes on the top of the door outside my bedroom and the D-hook hangs on the inside. When the door is shut the strap is stable and I can rig myself up. When I open the door it's only a drop of about a foot, so I can just catch myself. I don't use any leg bonds when using this method.
I use those the most because they are easy to work with and I have consistently set them up so I know they work. Other options I've used in the past, but have less trust in are as follows...
When using large braided rope as a main line I would often make what's called a slipped figure eight or slipped half hitch. A basic knot, but not pulled all the way through. So you'd have a loop of rope called the drawloop sticking out one end. The tension of the rope would prevent any slippage and when I wanted out I simply pulled the knot lose by jerking the drawloop back out. In the same way most Chinese food restaurants tie the plastic bags on to-go orders. Again, a small suspension height was required.
Another method I'm trying to perfect is having a rope tied to a dinner napkin sized piece of nylon cloth. I pass the nylon cloth through a small metal ring that is attached at the top of my suspension mount. Then I add a golf ball shaped ice cube to the inside of the cloth and pull the slack back through the metal ring until the ice wedges against the ring. This will create a secure line until the ice melts enough that it either slips through or cracks. Either way your main rope and nylon sack will fall through and you're released.
I've also used a pit in the ground as my suspension point and the edge nearby as my release point, getting in was as easy as jumping in and getting out required me to swing back to the edge.
I have used a zipline approach where you have a cable attached between two trees and your main suspension line is on a pulley that can move across the top wire. This requires a lot of tension though otherwise the top wire will just dip so much that you can't get back to the edge of the line where your stand is.
You could also use a ratcheting rope device, either hand made - Special Ring Device or purchased RopeRatchet from a place like home depot. The trick with these is to use a high strength nylon string, with several wraps around your mount point and the ratchet device. When you want to get down you simply cut through the nylon string (only one wrap needs to be cut) with a pair of safety shears and you'll fall from the rig.
And the last one I can think of off the top of my head is to tie your self with no slack in a standing position, then use a locking mechanism to tie your feet up to your thighs or waist. To release yourself you simply unlock the bind between your ankles and waist and you'll be able to stand right up and remove the main suspension line. Something like a keyed lock to hold an ankle bind to a belt around your waist would work.
Again, these are all very dangerous methods regardless of how comfortable I've become with them. Always test your rigs from inches off the ground, never bind your hands until you're fully confident in your work. And I really suggest you don't do inverted suspension unsupervised. And always try to keep your sessions as short as you can. The ice method is still a work in progress for me because it's so hard to time the release, not because I can't get it to work. If you pass out while in a suspended state you can easily cut off circulation to any limb including your brain without any way of recovering.
Enjoy!
My New Wireless Winch
Yesterday I completed the installation of my first winch system. I purchased a wirelessly controlled winch from Harbor Freight, and made a few safety precautions of my own for what I feel is a fairly safe self suspension bondage setup.
The winch is secured between four joists in the attic using about a dozen 5/8 inch bolts. The winch is installed in the attic and falls through a light fixture hole that is about 24 feet above our ground floor (it's conveniently located in our main living room which has a loft style second floor.)
The device is rated for 3000 lbs, so even dynamic loads are well within range. The device runs on a 12v battery which is charged with a trickle charger. So if the power goes out, I can still run the device.
I use a full body climbing harness along with a backup belay which allows me to lower myself in the event the winch were to jam or fail for any reason. In the even that the winch jams, I simply need to wait until the release mechanism for my hands and then I can unlock the belay rope and lower myself to the ground.
After two days of designing and building, I finally got to try it out. I tested my static weight first, and double checked my anchor work in the attic. Then I tested my dynamic weight by jumping up and down fairly harshly and confirmed that the winch was not budging from the anchors.
Finally I tried my first test secured in the harness at 1 foot high. The feeling was amazing. Having explored a variety of other self suspension rigs over doors, or on industrial wall hooks, the feeling of being disconnected from any surface like a wall or door is a totally different universe.
After shifting my harness into a more comfortable position I tried a 5 foot test. It has been a long time since I was as hard and as nervous while doing self bondage.
From there I decided to test the limits. After moving our couch underneath the rig, I took the winch up to about 18 feet. I had a little scare around 12 feet when the cable wire shifted in the winch assembly and dropped me about an eigth of an inch. More of a pop than a fall, but enough to bring me to my senses.
At 18 feet I could see our upstairs loft, and look out windows that my wife and I had once thought were unreachable to clean :D
To me there is no better feeling of being trapped than being suspended 15 feet off the ground. After lowering myself back down I ran into another problem. The cheap battery shipped with the wireless transmitter was already running low. Though it was a good test because I found out I was able to wind up the entire line after the first indication of battery depletion.
The best part is that I can simply attach the hook to the ceiling fixture cap, and the device is completely hidden from prying eyes.
My next task is to create a shroud around the hole in the ceiling with some 4" pvc pipe to prevent dust, insulation and drywall from being knocked down through the ceiling hole (and onto me while suspended.)
And I'm still researching ways to safely store the battery in the attic. For now I just take it down after playtime and keep it in our garage, which is significantly cooler. I'm not sure if I just need to place the battery near a vent, or if I need to use a specific battery, but it's completely worth lugging it around for now!
After that it's time to show off my work to my wife, who up to now has no idea what I've done!
The winch is secured between four joists in the attic using about a dozen 5/8 inch bolts. The winch is installed in the attic and falls through a light fixture hole that is about 24 feet above our ground floor (it's conveniently located in our main living room which has a loft style second floor.)
The device is rated for 3000 lbs, so even dynamic loads are well within range. The device runs on a 12v battery which is charged with a trickle charger. So if the power goes out, I can still run the device.
I use a full body climbing harness along with a backup belay which allows me to lower myself in the event the winch were to jam or fail for any reason. In the even that the winch jams, I simply need to wait until the release mechanism for my hands and then I can unlock the belay rope and lower myself to the ground.
After two days of designing and building, I finally got to try it out. I tested my static weight first, and double checked my anchor work in the attic. Then I tested my dynamic weight by jumping up and down fairly harshly and confirmed that the winch was not budging from the anchors.
Finally I tried my first test secured in the harness at 1 foot high. The feeling was amazing. Having explored a variety of other self suspension rigs over doors, or on industrial wall hooks, the feeling of being disconnected from any surface like a wall or door is a totally different universe.
After shifting my harness into a more comfortable position I tried a 5 foot test. It has been a long time since I was as hard and as nervous while doing self bondage.
From there I decided to test the limits. After moving our couch underneath the rig, I took the winch up to about 18 feet. I had a little scare around 12 feet when the cable wire shifted in the winch assembly and dropped me about an eigth of an inch. More of a pop than a fall, but enough to bring me to my senses.
At 18 feet I could see our upstairs loft, and look out windows that my wife and I had once thought were unreachable to clean :D
To me there is no better feeling of being trapped than being suspended 15 feet off the ground. After lowering myself back down I ran into another problem. The cheap battery shipped with the wireless transmitter was already running low. Though it was a good test because I found out I was able to wind up the entire line after the first indication of battery depletion.
The best part is that I can simply attach the hook to the ceiling fixture cap, and the device is completely hidden from prying eyes.
My next task is to create a shroud around the hole in the ceiling with some 4" pvc pipe to prevent dust, insulation and drywall from being knocked down through the ceiling hole (and onto me while suspended.)
And I'm still researching ways to safely store the battery in the attic. For now I just take it down after playtime and keep it in our garage, which is significantly cooler. I'm not sure if I just need to place the battery near a vent, or if I need to use a specific battery, but it's completely worth lugging it around for now!
After that it's time to show off my work to my wife, who up to now has no idea what I've done!
Welcome to Hangman's Bondage Blog
This is a collection of bondage material that I'd like to keep track of over the years. It's a mix of my own thoughts and ideas I've discovered around the net.
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